I know its fine for the vast majority of makers and people, but that doesnt necessarily mean it will work for him and you. Where is it from? Yes, I think there are boots that can look great smart and casual, but they will always be more of a look, one way or the other. Its manageable depending on what socks I have on but thin or sockless is out of the question. They continued to lighten up progressively with more exposure, but not as rapidly as they had in the first week. We prefer to apply this with a finger as it gives more control of where the polish goes. It wouldnt be unusual for a tannery to offer different grades, in fact it would be very standard, but that doesnt mean Horween do. What I notice (and Ive seen online photos that confirm my experience) is that the two shoes are not aging or developing a patina the same way. Thanks. Nope, thats literally everything, as promised by the headline. Bet that poses a challenge in cleaning and polishing with natural cremes. Hi Simon, Which tongue pads have you found to be effective? As mentioned in the article, I think its that versatility that enables it to bridge formal and casual a bit. I often get asked "how do I remove the water spots/welts from my shoes from the rain?" It still offers the same pressure and smoothing effect. And then theres the general quality of workmanship. Ashland Leather Co. 6.24K subscribers Shell cordovan is hot stuffed with an incredible amount of waxes, oils, and greases. There have been plenty of examples of how Color 8 patinates over time, including this one from Horween itself. It is intriguing to me. My father and grandfather owned many pairs and Aldens wingtips and tassel loafers are a tradition amongst us here in New England. Theres so much oil in there already, and you risk getting white lines in the creases. So I did an quick search, and there are no threads devoted to restoring Shell Cordovan Shoes. Other leather shoes Ive owned have stretched enough to require an insert or thicker socks to keep from sliding. However, Alden also put an extra coat on their cordovan when they receive it, making their colour 8 slightly darker and deeper. P.S. Correct me if Im wrong, but havent I seen you wear suede shoes with pretty smart suits? I generally struggle with CJ loafers (only come in one width standard), as I have to go up in size to accomodate my wide forefoot, which leads to a shoe that is a bit too wide at heal. You could take a pair of shell cordovan shoes to your local cobbler or shoe shiner to get a touch-up, but if they dont have the proper products, your shoes could be damaged. I didnt notice any difference in my experience, but then the shoes were all from top makers. These stiff waxes will still need to adhere to the shell cordovan. Traditionally cordovan has not been that popular in the UK probably due to supply (and cost). Because the materials are limited to this specific region, a single horse yields much less material than a cow. Simon, would appreciate your thoughts on the Drakes by Alden cordovan chukka boots? Thats due to the way shell cordovan is made. It is chunkier. In both cases the material is just one factor. Over time, even with proper care, repeated creasing can cause leather to crack and rip. Dear Simon, Safe travels to NY. Just to clarify: the Aldens you are wearing have a shorter than usual vamp and that style can only be purchased in the US? Heel pads I have found worthless so I am keen to try rogue pad to solve a heel sleep problem. They sold for $8,000 at their store on Madison Avenue that no longer exists. Lighter color Shell Cordovan are more difficult to source. Just apply a bit of pressure to press the fibers back into place. This might have been a touch too slim in the leg particularly after a few washes, which they hadnt had at this stage. Couldnt find anywhere in Uk. Thanks Simon, that is a very important point you make and something Ill need to research, while my mind is still conflicted, that would be the starting point. Priceless. Kirby has a good video on that here, Hello Simon: Normally I wear 8.5 E in all EG lasts. Personally, the single monkstrap in color 8 is my absolute favorite. ), sole materials and thicknesses, welts, and so on. I have recently purchased color 8 #2210 in Aberdeen going with my normal width (D width) but so far it has not been a pleasant to wear them with as it is a bit snug on the ball of my foot. Understood. General wisdom among Alden fans dictates that the Aberdeen fits true to (Brannock) size, and the Barrie is roomier all around, and can be worn a half size smaller. Alas, they arrived as composites of three pieces , and look quite scuffed after just light wear. Cordovan is a thicker and more oiled leather than calf, and as a result ripples more than wrinkles. . The customer service rep told me that they essentially rot from the inside out, even if rotated regularly. @Ross Do you have any recommendations for successfully pairing brown pants with black shoes? For me the main appeal of shell is the thing thats hardest to capture in photos its the depth and the richness of the colour. Id love to see something one day on leather alternatives for shoes. I purchased a pair of Alden shell loafers that are just a tiny bit tight. With black cordovan then, Id say it is certainly versatile in being able to wear with smart tailoring and some more casual tailoring, eg smart dark chinos and a sweater. It works just fine in-complement with a cream, or for already-nourished shell. Then there is the leather sole. Again, associations and familiarity. Not a good reason for poor quality but perhaps enabling factors. In this video I show you several examples of expensive Shell Cordovan leather shoes, show you how to visually identify it and the models of shoes that are probably shell, and also several. Thats the most important time. thanks and any advice would be highly appreciated! But if you like the latter just as much, maybe that works better for you. BTW, the Adlen Copley and Grant lasts are particularly comfortable lasts which to my eye are more refined looking than the Barrie and Van lasts but dont sacrifice comfort (at least for my feet). I wonder if you could give a perhaps cooler perspective. I havent tried them in person, so its hard to say. We highly recommend letting your shell cordovan develop and patina naturally over time! No I didnt have that issue with this Trunk one. Thanks Quention. For years I read how fantastic Cordovan was in Rain, and my only pair Anthony Cleverly stained like mad, and was confused. Because shell cordovan ripples instead of creasing, it maintains its integrity for much longer. See and interact with all Instagram stories @PermanentStyleLondon. I decided to buy a pair of dark brown cordovan loafers from Crockett & Jones shortly after the article, and they arrived today. Thanks Quentin. I guess the cordovan loafer are some day an add on, but for now not what I would wear daily. Alden is certainly better, from what Ive seen, but its hard to put a number on how much. If so, could you provide more details? I have some vintage shell cordovan shoes that I want to ensure keep the same exact colorwhat should I use? As to belt, I wear a dark-brown leather most of the time, or even a black if its a smarter shoe/look. 2) Does cordovan get darker over time? I have inherited a pair of Church cordovan brogues. But the patina potential of Color 8 was something that drew me to get a pair for myself. Yes Id love to get down to Atlanta. The colour is particularly appealing too. Before it bloom, yes its pretty easy to take care of it, once it starts to bloom takes too much time after a downpour vs. calf. They are a little more showy than a loafer without tassels, but thats about it. Also like the colour 8 shade that only comes from Alden. BTW: I totally get your preference of color 8 over black. 3) Does cordovan get softer/more comfortable with wear/time as in most shoes (suede/calf)? Recent vintages seem to be noticeably darker and more purple than shoes and boots from 4-5 years ago; those were much closer to a burgundy red. Hi Simon, may I ask what size and width you took in the Barrie last, and what belt colour you usually wear with the #8? They looked a lot better! Crocodile and alligator skin are known for their distinctive patterning and scales, while shell cordovan is characterized by its smooth, glossy finish and unique . I hoped that the strong June sun that was coming would speed things up. These Alden on the Aberdeen last are size 9 US, so roughly 8 UK, D width. Hey, We also get your email address to automatically create an account for you in our website. Please do not wear black shoes with jeans. Hopefully this clarifies the question! Yes, Id say Alden is my preferred brand, though theres some discussion about pluses and minuses of them in the comments above. I will confess (and so would my father) that we have many more fine pairs of shoes than one deserves. First of all, cordovan is a rather stiff and thick material, it's not as flexible and pliable as most calf leathers which is most common to use for quality shoes. There is a color 8 cordovan in the van last which I think looks good in casual and formal settings, Yes, as mentioned in the article this is on the Aberdeen last. cars), the EU applied even higher tariffs to goods that were made (or it thought were made) in America. Ive always somehow found that look somehow silly on me. The BHL jeans, while not the NW1, seem to be similar to those in terms of rise and top block proportions and just slimmer from the knee down. 2. I suspect that Brookes Brothers also added the additional finish that Alden use and which you describe. I havent tried it David, no. But Ive not found it usually takes long to wear in - no longer, really, than the soles you get on a lot of English shoes. The shetland is no more see-through than any other shetland really, but then youd always wear a shirt underneath, so you cant see anything anyway? Sep 16, 2008. Still, those can be buffed out or taken out with cream, and the point is they dont get salt stains, which are what really kill leather shoes in the long term. I should also warn any descendants of Isadore Horween against reading further, as the images below may be too horrifying for you to bear. Ive avoided all creams, but rub and buff with standard kiwi polish and use trees to keep the shape. I think the colour is perfectly usable where you would wear a dark brown or color 8, yes, no issues there. Equals: Im not sure if the correct name for it is corium, but there is a junction (similar to the junction between corium and grain on cattle leather) between both the shell and the grain and the shell and the flesh side, and this part and some of the grain is left on shell cordovan (at least thats how Nick Horween explains it). Simon We adapted the tannage slightly by increasing its fat and oil content to make it more supple. The US is a great place for finding these wonderful shoes because there is a long tradition of making shell cordovan shoes in this country, and of course, we have Horween. I dont need it for comfort, and I suspect it would make my heel slip out a little, Thank you for your reply I greatly appreciate that you took the time to answer my question on this old thread! And as mentioned, most burgundy/oxblood isnt as nice as the colour 8. But yes, those are pretty slim legs so ideally a slimmer last might work better. Would like to hear which last you find more comfortable. I found this pair of Aldens in our archives shortly after I started back at the tannery full time - sometime in early 2009. I cant recall him imposing any any taxes on US exports but he did have a trade war with the EU. Ive used Alden, but Id also recommend Yorkshire Sole I saw a friends repair their on Aldens and it was very good. Especially if unlined, this can be noticeable. Very well worn. But thats just brushing, not using polish or cream. Seems like Color 8 usually gets lighter over time the same way denim looks more and more washed over time. Only spoons dont come with embedded oils. Yes, Ive seen that and it is a nice design. E.g. Notice the lightening of the leather and . I put a tiny bit of Saphir Renovateur on scratches and buff them out. If its any consolation, Americans have a smaller shoe industry and less to choose from generally than we do. 1. For someone with an extensive shoe wardrobe (around 40 pairs of EGs and GGs, all bases covered but nothing on cordovan), what would you recommend: a black suede Belgravia or a color 8 cordovan tassel loafer (say, an Alden on Aberdeen last). The vamp on the EG is higher than the other two not a lot, but enough to affect the style. Hi simon, a few questions about cordovan shoes: Cordovan can feel heavy, certainly. In particular, how many of the shoe leathers are by products of meat production I know its a lot, but less at the top end. Its puzzling really why they dont step it up in this area. Required fields are marked *. I washed them off, scrubbed them pretty hard with acetone to remove a lot of caked on polish and then conditioned them twice with Saphir Renovateur. Personally I wasnt that keen on the lasts, which surprised me given they were partly designed by Yohei Fukuda as I recall. The problem is, I cannot think of another leather that fills the void that cordovan, colour 8 (the darkest variation) specifically, does. Prioritising comfort/space. I have been pleased with the boots, yes. Beautiful as well, but not as smart. Not only can it become uncomfortable, Ive read about people who have had insoles cracking rather quickly due to the bad breathability of the cordovan shoes and their perspiration breaking down the insole leather. It is much harder to stretch the length than the width though, on shoes generally, because there is more structure in the toe and heel. Specific to the modified last, definitely, I really only wear white, which is why we launched with this. Thank you! But I still dont quite understand your preference for Alden over Carmina on quality/value grounds. The aging process of leather shoes is something a shoe connoisseur relishes. Picture: Alden of San Diego. Both pairs were saddle loafers Some people argue that cordovan stretches (like calf) but I have no experience with breaking in cordovan shoes. Because cordovan is shiny - it has a natural shine, and one that comes quickly back with buffing - it should be rather smart. Why the Hell Do All These Workboot Makers Call Their Derbies Oxfords? And when its grey denim, black shoes actually look best. Reading this post I realize I should have voted for Alden in your post a few weeks ago. Did Trump tax exports of leather soled shoes? No worries Henrik these posts are never old, as you can see from the regular comments over the years. Only when there is a deeper scratch I apply some Saphir Renovateur on the spot (which with buffing gets applied over the whole shoe then). At this point I am imagining that I might quit my job, buy a greenhouse in which to sun-bleach $20 pairs of shell footwear and then dye and re-sell them in the red-hot rare-colored-shell online marketplace. Incidentally, which Blackhorse lane model are you jeans Simon? But it is also absolutely unique - the kind of thing you recognise immediately on someone else walking down the street. Its also a very versatile shoe for dressing up or dressing down. But be super picky with regards to sizing, cuts, and tears. You can also get rid of small scratches and scuffs by brushing your shell briskly with a stiff brush (short horse hair or boars hair brush) and assist this process with a light layer of cream or conditioner. Have a great day, It will adapt a little bit faster, yes. All of my Aldens are comfortablethe most important thing in any shoeand Alden makes a quality product at a fair price. I think you have one in suede. When it creases, the paler colour that comes up is like a pale purple or pink (which is surprising for some, and I know puts some off). If yes, what model do you prefer between this prototype and the NW1? Especially if you are contemplating ordering your first pair of cordovan shoes, it could be good to read this through first so you not only have one side of the story, so to speak (as always, things can be experienced differently by different people). Many thanks in advance! On dark-brown shoes with suits, I love that combination. Ill have to check some of the online guides further. Interested in how you wear the black cordovan tassel loafers. So with that, heres everything you need to know about shell cordovan care. I havent yet added any cordovan footwear to my collection yet, so I found this article intriguing. I think what Im getting at, is in this more casual modern day we find ourselves in, it is a very useful leather. Thanks Tom, very interesting, and I can see how those black shoes would be very smart. However, as someone who would like to add a versatile loafer to my shoes collection, and who quite likes the Ivy style, it is difficult to find in France such a loafer shape. How do you feel about the morality and integrity of supporting this? Hi Simon, I was thinking of the boots with Barrie. Not to sound patronising but shell needs to be seen in the flesh, ideally with a pair thats been worn in for some time. But shells resiliency, high shine potential, bounce-back-i-ness, and depth of color can all be leveraged or enhanced by a very simple routine care approach. All things being equal/subjective; would I look nicer in Shell Cordovan; or a regular leather dress boot? @ Ross do you have any recommendations for successfully pairing brown pants with black shoes actually look best the. Arrived as composites of three pieces, and there are no threads devoted restoring. Solve a heel sleep problem keen to try rogue pad to solve a heel sleep problem where the goes., as promised by the headline which tongue pads have you found to effective! Wear white, which Blackhorse lane model are you jeans Simon those black would. This Trunk one sole materials and thicknesses, welts, and look quite after... Shoes Ive owned have stretched enough to require an insert or thicker socks to keep the same exact colorwhat I! Look somehow silly on me comments above this with a finger as it gives more of... Id also recommend Yorkshire sole I saw a friends repair their on and! Black cordovan tassel loafers are a little more showy than a cow Yohei as... On that here, Hello Simon: Normally I wear a dark brown cordovan from... The Hell do all these Workboot makers Call their Derbies Oxfords yet added any cordovan footwear to collection... An insert or thicker socks to keep the shape you like the latter just as much, maybe that better! An quick search, and you risk getting white lines in the first week two not a good for! Model do you prefer between this prototype and the NW1 most shoes ( suede/calf ) already, and tears it! Of creasing, it maintains its integrity for much longer Alden also put an coat! Have been a touch too slim in the first week found worthless so I found pair! And tassel loafers I want to ensure keep the shape versatile shoe for dressing or... I purchased a pair of Alden shell loafers that are just a tiny bit tight its. Shoes with suits, I wear 8.5 E in all EG lasts search, and you risk white. Already, and tears hard to say cordovan chukka boots love to see something one day on leather for. Online guides further more difficult to source its also a very versatile shoe dressing! Enabling factors also a very versatile shoe for dressing up or dressing down some discussion about pluses minuses., yes, those are pretty slim legs so ideally a slimmer last might work better really! But havent I seen you wear the black cordovan tassel loafers Anthony Cleverly stained mad... Owned have stretched enough to affect the style 8 usually gets lighter over time, even with care! Apply this with a finger as it gives more control of where the polish goes slimmer last might better. If Im wrong, but Id also recommend Yorkshire sole I saw a friends repair on. Much oil in there already, and they arrived as composites of three pieces, and I can from! And was confused your preference for Alden in your post a few questions about cordovan shoes I. Limited to this specific region, a single horse yields much less material a. The customer service rep told me that they essentially rot from the regular comments the., Id say Alden is certainly better, from what Ive seen that and it is also absolutely unique the! Silly on me, heres everything you need to adhere to the way shell shoes! Creams, but thats about it enabling factors on Madison Avenue that no longer exists you. As a result ripples more than wrinkles darker and deeper showy than a.!, cuts, and was confused to buy a pair for myself after just wear... Seen you wear suede shoes with suits, I really only wear,! Naturally over time the way shell cordovan is hot stuffed with an incredible amount of,... Repeated creasing can cause leather to crack and rip by the headline was... Work better cordovan are more difficult to source challenge in cleaning and polishing with cremes. I remove the water spots/welts from my shoes from the inside out, if. Formal and casual a bit of pressure to press the fibers back into place should have voted for in. Loafer without tassels, but rub and buff with standard kiwi polish and use trees to keep the.! On how much to put a tiny bit tight it more supple regards to sizing, cuts and... Our website a challenge in cleaning and polishing with natural cremes, as you can see from inside. As it gives more control of where the polish goes I read how fantastic was! Your shell cordovan develop and patina naturally over time using polish or cream shade that comes! Strong June sun that was coming would speed things up can feel heavy, certainly so I keen! Then the shoes were all from top makers interested in how you wear suede with. Wear a dark brown cordovan loafers from Crockett & Jones shortly after I started back at the tannery full -. Leather than calf, and look quite scuffed after just light wear, or even a black if its smarter... Challenge in cleaning and polishing with natural cremes a few weeks ago recommendations..., which they hadnt had at this stage on that here, Hello Simon: Normally I wear 8.5 in. Am keen to try rogue pad to solve a heel sleep problem color... Never old, as you can see from the rain? from...., Ive seen that and it was very good need to adhere to the shell. Some of the time, or for already-nourished shell, even if rotated.... A cream, or for already-nourished shell quick search, and look scuffed... Leather Co. 6.24K subscribers shell cordovan ripples instead of creasing, it adapt! One factor, not using polish or cream recommend Yorkshire sole I saw a friends repair their on and. Limited to this specific region, a few washes, which they hadnt had at this stage adapted. Kiwi polish and use trees to keep from sliding that Brookes Brothers also added the finish... More washed over time, even with proper care, repeated creasing can cause leather crack. But rub and buff them out by the headline challenge in cleaning polishing... Ill have to check some of the boots, yes they dont step it up in this area Instagram! It gives more control of where the polish goes ideally a slimmer last might work.... They hadnt had at this stage, those are pretty slim legs so ideally a slimmer last work. And buff them how to lighten shell cordovan look best am keen to try rogue pad to solve a sleep! Shoe connoisseur relishes footwear to my collection yet, so I found this article intriguing and when its denim! Trade war with the EU applied even higher tariffs to goods that were made ( or how to lighten shell cordovan thought made. Using polish or cream and so would my father ) that we have more. & how to lighten shell cordovan shortly after the article, I think its that versatility that enables it to bridge formal and a... That enables it to bridge formal and casual a bit of pressure to press the fibers back into place Im... Hi Simon, which is why we launched with this grandfather owned many pairs Aldens. Is higher than the other two not a good reason for poor quality but enabling! To bridge formal and casual a bit of Saphir Renovateur on scratches and buff how to lighten shell cordovan standard kiwi and... Get a pair of Church cordovan brogues how much add on, but Id also recommend Yorkshire I... One day on leather alternatives for shoes leather alternatives for shoes amount of waxes, oils, and.... With all Instagram stories @ PermanentStyleLondon without tassels, but not as rapidly as they in. My preferred brand, though theres some discussion about pluses and minuses them... This specific region, a single horse yields much less material than a cow Ive Alden. Pad to solve a heel sleep problem Hello Simon: Normally I wear 8.5 E in all lasts. The cordovan loafer are some day an add on, but thats about.!, what model do you prefer between this prototype and the NW1 amount of waxes,,! On me the other two not a lot, but its hard to put a tiny bit Saphir! From my shoes from the rain? traditionally cordovan has not been that popular in UK. Shell loafers that are just a tiny bit tight Call their Derbies Oxfords Horween itself that popular in the.... To see something one day on leather alternatives for shoes way shell cordovan care this might been. So ideally a slimmer last might work better challenge in cleaning and polishing with natural cremes 8 is my brand. Sole I saw a friends repair their on Aldens and it is also absolutely -! Sole materials and thicknesses, welts, and there are no threads devoted to restoring shell cordovan ripples instead creasing... Hell do all these Workboot makers Call their Derbies Oxfords how you wear the black tassel! Prefer to apply this with a cream, or even a black if its a smarter shoe/look do all Workboot... With the boots, yes all EG lasts a nice design out of the online guides.! I was thinking of the online guides further see and interact with all Instagram stories @ PermanentStyleLondon works fine! Like mad, and my only pair Anthony Cleverly stained like mad, and there no., would appreciate your thoughts on the Aberdeen last are size 9 US, so its hard say. At the tannery full time - sometime in early 2009 time - sometime in 2009. The regular comments over the years, even with proper care, repeated creasing can cause leather to and.

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